How the Priorat Terroir is Mastered in Perinet Bottles?!

Priorat is one of the most fascinating terroirs of the wine world. Heroic viticulture, basically non-existing topsoil, burning summer temperature, secluded side-valleys, ancient temple ruins, rustic land with rustic wines. First time on the Wine Ghosts podcast, some of the secrets of this exceptional vine growing region are reveled thank to Carlota and Toni from the respected Perinet winery.

Toni, the knowledgeable head winemaker of Perinet, brilliantly introduced the listeners to the climate, main soil type, grape varieties and recent history of Priorat. Moreover, he clearly summed up the differences between the growing region and typical wines of the Montsant DO and the Priorat DOQ. Two wine regions which (more often than not) plainly depicted as: “The glorious big brother Priorat with legendary red wines of burning savouriness and masculinity, and the also-run Montsant which occasionally shoots some shining bottles out of the also-run Spanish “oaky overripeness”.

SENSE OF PLACE

We are in Catalonia, Priorat county, 90 minutes South-West of Barcelona, surrounded by Montsant. in the Poboleda village zone. North-Eastern part of Priorat, where the shadow of mountains in the Montsant natural park brings noticeable freshness to the vineyards. Close to the bottom of the mountain, vineyards get refreshing wind flows which invigorate the hot vineyards in the summer, help keeping the acidity, while allowing the tremendous sunshine hours lifting the aromas at the same time.

***‘Vinya Pendents’, the most “dramatic” Perinet vineyards.***

The region got basically left behind after the phylloxera conquered the region in the first half of the 20th century. Then, after decades of some miniscule, second-rate, ‘Sleeping Beauty’ status, motivated winemakers have been revitalizing the region for some 35 years, now. Well, Robert Parker probably also blew some wind into the region’s sail, encouraging the “overextracted, oakheavy, alcohol monsters” in the beginning of the 2000’s. However, a decent group of (typically younger) vintners decided to go for elegance and finesse without giving up the Priorat’s spicy ripeness.

Toni says that the wines of the South often show lower acidity, maybe even less crispiness. But let here be no mistake, both of these lands are hot as hell in the summer. The real difference in the Priorat does lie neither in soil differences (topsoil is mostly absent anyway) nor in altitude variations, but rather in different exposures.

The key soil formation is Llicorella, a lush brown slate with high iron content, which also reflected in the vast majority of characteristic Priorat bottles. Priorat’s brown slate itself is not matchless among wine terroirs (also in Rheingau for example), but it hardly meets with so ripe red berries anywhere else. On the other hand, the surrounding Montsant is more of a mosaic of soil compositions with different clay, loam and chalk content.

As a rule, Priorat vineyards bring smaller berries forth, give birth to meaty, rustic, testosterone- rich wines with ungodly reductive notes. On the other hand, Montsant gives home to bigger berries on “friendlier” bedrock, leading typically to more “sociable”, less concentrated wines.

GRAPES

Grenache (locally Garnatxa) and Carignan (locally Carinyena) are king. They’ve been planted together since ancient times and understand each other at least as good as Merlot and Cabernet a bit more up North. Compared to Carinyena, Garnatxa tends to be more alcoholic and aromatic, while showing less colour and acidity. „Kind Monsters” exceeding 15% ABV are nothing to be shocked about here. Legally table wines can reach up to 18% (!) ABV in Priorat, without the need for the frightening ’liquor wine’ moniker.

“Garnatxa and Carinyena have been planted together
since ancient times”

According to Tony, the trick is not to pick earlier though, because you’ll lose a lot of potential aromas, therefore a wine could feel more alcoholic on 14% than 16%. Although it sounds like an astute alibi for the skyrocketing alcohol levels, it somehow makes sense after experiencing it for yourself. A bit more scientifically, riper berries bring more polysaccharides to the table which then results in a more velvety sensation overall.

WINEMAKING

Berries are picked hot, then cooled down in special fridges. To my liking, native yeast strains are well adapted to the terroir’s hot climate and skyrocketing sugar levels, so they are able to deliver these highly concentrated “aromabombs”. Addition of external lactic acid bacteria isn’t required either, the malo always finishes. For adequate extraction, a unique ‘gas rumbling technique’ is regularly performed for an optimum flavour extraction.

“The 1194 is a classical Priorat blend made with traditional varieties in a modern way. To make people understand Priorat.

In this process, decompressed air is pushed into the fermenting tank making the pump-over gentler, thereby preventing the extraction of bitter tannins. More traditional ‘Pigage’ happens only at the end of the fermentation: to keep the cap wet.

The typical Priorat rusticity and savouriness rarely comes without oak. Toni uses classic barriques for Cabernet, 300l barrel for Carinena and Syrah, and double the volume (600l) for Grenache. Mostly French cooperages for more refined tannin development and less woody aromas. As a general rule, Carinyena is handled more oxidatively, needs more air than Grenache.

PERINET IN A GLAS

Perinet safeguards three characteristic vineyard sites on around 20 ha. Yield is low, extremely low. Quoting Toni: “1 kg per 1m2 is the ratio that the vines like! ... where they are happy”, otherwise the hellish summer heat would take a toll on the vigor. The south-facing Mas Vell sitting as high as 450 meters resulting in tremendous ripeness with proud acidic backbone. Mas del Xes is the largest parcel of Perinet (around 10ha), facing mostly North “within a natural amphitheater near the base of the Montsant mountain range.” Heroic viticulture is required in the northeast facing Pendents vineyards, close to Porrera. Steep slopes (occasionally exceeds even 30%) with strong cooling influence from the Mediterranean. Perinet plantings date back to the year of 2000, focusing on the traditional red grapes of the area: Garnatxa and Carinyena. Harvesting their 20 ha normally starts at the end of September, and it can last until November as they orient to different exposures rather than simply to the grape varieties.

“The 1194 is a classical Priorat blend made with traditional varieties in a modern way. To make people understand Priorat.

Since Grenache tends to have a fetish for accumulating as much potential alcohol as hardly any other grape dares to take on, its plantations mostly face North to avoid any heat overdose. On the other hand, South-facing Carinyena vineyards are no scarcity as the grape tends to be less saucy. The usual French suspects (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes) mostly play supporting rules in the Perinet vineyards, and mostly added to cuvées.

WINES AND THEIR WHISPERS

As Toni has put it: “Mediterranean wines are ready to drink earlier than an ‘Atlantic Wine’ like a Bordeaux blend.” Well, these wine ghosts were not even four years old and were already shining with grace, so Toni’s wisdom is justified. We’ve tasted the Grenache and the Carignan side by side in order to let the grapes whisper their sagas in familiar company.

Garnatxa is usually more translucent and has more purplish reflexes, although only the latter trait shows up in this comparison. The perfume shows high quality grape, white pepper, cardamom, and prune. The acidity will take the aftertaste on a longer ride, quite high acidity. Mas Vell’s ruthless sunshine hours show up with shocking 16% ABV on the bottle, but never overwhelmingly on the palate.

Whispers: Marmalade impressions, every possible form of wild strawberry, white pepper on the nose, rainbow of aromas coming from perfect ripeness. Polished, but substantial tannins. Lingering acidity to govern the alcohol. Aromas are spinning in the mouth like a centrifuge. After snipping on the wine for multiple days, its flavours diverged from the fruity and went towards the spicy.

Their ‘Vinya Pendents Carinyena’ is something to fell in love with. Filthiness, savouriness, a lot of tertiary notes even in its youth, the biggest dark fruit basket ever seen, spicy finish with cardamom, black pepper, clove, pencil shaving. To compensate the immense concentration, Carignan’s ferocious acidity is key to lend vitality and balance to the mouthfeel.

Whispers: More meaty, inky, rustic, more filthiness. Cardamom, black pepper, spice. Fusion of red and black fruits, noticeable prunes. Acidity shines even brighter than in the Garnatxa.

My gut feeling tells me that the Garnatxa is a “better boy” than the Carinyena, which has a deeper layer and tenser concentration. However, both wines had this never-ending but ever- evolving finish. Due to this dreamy structure built on two necessary pillars: perfectly ripe phenolics and uplifting acidity, these wines could certainly indulge you with ungodly sensations on one of those special retirement days.

Perinet’s 2016 Cuvée is one of the handful wines that made my girlfriend weeping for joy. This wine somehow had the keys to her soul and ignited sacrilegious ecstasy in her senses.

The flagship wine ghost of Perinet isthe the cuvée ‘1194’, referring to the heritage of the Cistercian monks in the region (look up the monastery of Scala Dei). A classic Priorat blend to help people understand the Priorat terroir, a postcard with traditional varieties.