Austria vs the World #1
Showing the potential of the Austrian Wine Country in 4 blind tasting flights
I’ve recently started to rebrand our weekly tasting event at Hotel Jungbrunn. I felt the need for a new wind, for an innovative and unique approach, away from the somewhat boring line of the Austrian classics. So once decided to choose 8 wines from our wine list, 4 Austrian ones and 4 international ones made with the same (group of) varieties, and put them against each other! Somewhat classic examples are the best, as they don’t discourage the guests and they an certainly learn the typicity of the wine style.
Every Tuesday, 12 guests gather around next the fireplace in a silent corner of the hotel just after dinner to taste the difference. They get 2 glasses each (their weapons for the day as I like to call it), and get poured 1 flight, 2 wines at the same time. The only thing they know is that one of them is Austrian, but they have no idea either about the variety(ies) or the other terroir. So I become their guidance, their “Google search for Wine”. However, I think my best helps are rather asking questions than giving answers. Some examples:
Do you smell any oak, so vanilla, nutmeg, coconut or anything other than fruit?
Well, you already get an idea about the typical winemaking techniques in the region.
Is the fruit profile rather cool or warm? Do you smell greenish fruits, zestiness, fresh aromas or rather tropical, Southern fruits with supreme ripeness?
It normally brings you straight to the climatic zone. Certain jammy quality can easily put you to the new world and/or to a Mediterranean climate in Europe.
Where would you put the acidity on a scale of 5? Does your mouth salivate or the experience is rather flat and caressing?
Can the high acidity be a benchmark character of the variety, based on the aromatics and the winemaking, or does it reveal the cool climate character in the wine with certain almost underripe, greenish aromas?
Where would you put the alcohol? Is it closer to 12 or 15? Is it well-integrated, or has a burning sensation in the finish?
It is hardly possible to make a high alcoholic wine in the Saar River valley, agreed? And have you drank a 12% ABV red from the Southern Rhone without any underlying green character? You see where I’m going whit this.
Does the red wine has a red-fruited or a black-fruited character?
For example: Cabernet Franc is almost always on the red-fruited side for me, while Cabernet Sauvignon shows more cassis and black cherry character instead. If it’s kind of in-between, there is a great chance that it’s a cuvée.
After the grape variety is revealed, what are actually the typical appellations for the variety? Is it New World or Old World?
Yesterday, we had a wonderful group of wine lovers. All grape varieties were cracked by some members of the group and two restaurateurs even got some appellations right. Out of personal curiosity, I always ask the gang which one of the two bottlings fascinated them more and how much money would they pay for the bottle in our restaurant.
Polz Sauvignon Blanc Ehrenhausen 2020
Pfitscher Sauvignon Blanc “Mathias “Reserva” 2019
That was a prime example of cool climate vs typical South Tyrol. I specify South Tyrol, because there are not much wine region in the world that can match almost tropical ripeness with piercing acidity in whites. Well, the grapes for the Mathias come on a cru that sits on rocky soil (gray porphyry and sandy limestone) at 900 meters in altitude. Undeniable oak influence which is well-integrated and still allows the precise fruit and the mineral character to shine.
Without a doubt, Styria is a cool climate region. It shows more zesty character, no new oak, slightly more pronounced acidity, more herbs and capsicum, and fine nutty notes in the background (more of a sign for fine lees ageing). Great limestone linearity and purity of the Sauvignon aromas, but definitely a cooler place and less body.
The Mathias took the lead in this flight, they all marvelled at the generosity and richness in such a precise skeleton. Surprise surprise, both wines are actually undervalued on our list after this blind tasting experience, these guests would have paid around 10 Euros more for these wine ghosts.
Feel free to learn more about the Pfitscher wines in the 60th Podcast Episode.
3. Kollwentz Chardonnay Gloria 2019
4. Chavy-Chout Les Narvaux Meursault (Chardonnay) 2019
That’s a rather tough one. With this flight, my intention is rather showing the potential of Chardonnay in Austria than show the superiority of Burgundy.
In my book, Kollwent’s Gloria is always among the top 10 whites of Austria.
This cru has been praised for about 500 years. The highest (around 300m) single vineyard site in the Leithagebirge (Western side of the Lake Neusidl) with a great proportion of limestone, assuring slow ripeness, pronounced minerality and purity, which is put inside a well-proportioned oak curtain.
Meursault. A place that doesn’t need introduction, or does it? I tend to find more and more purity, refinement and elegance in the recent Meursaults, although a certain depth and richness is almost inevitable due to the Southern location and somewhat heavier soil. Les Narvaux is also a hilltop site as Gloria and builds on considerable limestone reservoirs. The fact that Chavy-Chout uses only 20% new oak for this lively Chardonnay, lends a somewhat uplifted playfulness and lightness to the mouthfeel.
And we have a winner! A witty restaurant owner has labelled the juice as a Meursault Premier Cru, as it maybe should be judged by the quality alone. The result was somewhat divisive this time, people appreciated the relatively weightier texture and more pronounced oak influence of the Gloria, while the Les Nervaux was a bit more crystalline and uplifted.
5. Johanneshof-Reinisch Pinot Noir Holzspur 2016
6. Domaine de Montille Bourgogne Rouge (Pinot Noir) 2016
The first flight with solely organic wines, and I must say, also the most delicate and “digestible” one. (the German word “bekömmlich” sound more appropriate this time) Of course, it’s also the delicacy of Pinot, but these wines all had a noticeable harmonious vibration and grace.
Holzspur is one of my favourite Pinots in the country. The Thermenregion is still a hidden gam for wine lovers on the international market, although the Reinisch brothers would certainly deserve more attention. That’s a mecca for Burgundy varietals in Lower Austria due to its Cistercian heritage and limestone seas underground. No wonder that benchmark Austrian mineral water brands have their wells in the region.
The grapes for the Bourgogne come from Volnay and Puligy, which is well-reflected in the pure red-fruited, flowery perfume and limber structure. The refined fruit dominance and linear frame left the impression of a somewhat feminine wine with a refreshing finish.
The Holzspur was actually mistaken with a Nuits-Saint George by the same guy who spotted the Meursault, which is quite a compliment on its own if you ask me. It had more layers, more depth and broader mouthfeel this time. It had somewhat more secrets to reveal and offered more options for a memorable food pairing.
7. Goldenits Mephisto (40% Syrah , 28% Merlot 32% Cabernet Sauvignon) 2017
8. Kappa Toscana (30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 30% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot) 2016
Although these wines are not entirely identic in their varietal composition, the intent behind the wines is somewhat identical: “let’s take internationally successful French varietals that work well together and blend them with a barrique armour.”
The Mephisto has spent 2 years in new barrique, still an angry teenager with a bunch of testosteron and oak spice. Not unlike the Kappa Toscana, which is still a baby, but already emits such a ripeness and concentration (dry extract well exceeds 30g/l) in the perfume that is an unmatchable Tuscan sunboy. It carries some characteristic Tuscan leather notes matched with some espresso that takes you to this beautiful land. The Mephisto shows a somewhat cooler character with a more restained ripeness of black fruits, still not well integrated oak layer and an acidity which sticks out.
It was like a a guy with a hangover who put on the first clothes from the closet without the slightest intention of looking good that day.
Kappa was a clear winner in this flight, and everyone agreed. It was a great confirmation again, that Bordeaux varietals can only help you shine to the top, when you have a fantastic terroir and a great cella master.